N e c k

August 08, 2018

This arvo was nuts, and so were the kids getting thrashed by the Bondi shorey. I drove down expecting only knee cappers but there was the sets rose up high and pounded into the centimetres of water below. Just watching these guys riding, body bashing and crashing into one another hurt. I saw one young kid stand up after getting nailed, drilled into the sand clutching the back of his neck and I feared the worst. Five years ago I fractured my neck playing soccer; I always cringe and get sympathy pains when watching similar impacts occur. Thankfully this legend along with his mates got back out there and continued surfing.

How was that sunrise colour this morning!? Pretty stoked that I was able to pull myself from the covers and witness natures beauty. Seems we are in a stretch of colour at the moment and I am loving it!! 

See you in the morning,


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